Bali to Singapore and the islands in between

www.intrepidofdover.co.uk has updated photos of Indonesia, and this tale
includes an account by Tim of what it is really like to be on Intrepid....

Cowes Sailing Regatta or the America's Cup couldn't beat it. As the sun
rose, hundreds of brightly coloured sails - apparently spinnakers - filled
the horizon spread over several miles of the Lombok-Bali Channel. Maybe a
yachting race, (Bali-Singapore?), then as we got closer I realized they were
local wooden canoes no more than half a metre wide, 5 metres long with
outriggers on either side, one person/boat, large lateen sails of gaudy
woven tablecloth material powering east from Bali to Lombok at 8+ knots
rolling wildly in 20-25 knots wind from the south and boisterous 1-1.5 metre
waves. We met them just after Intrepid had left Lombok island at 6am to sail
to Bali, across the 1000+ metres deep channel that is the famous Wallace
line. They must have sailed all night with no moon (Ramadan had just started
and it starts with the sliver of the new moon), 30-45 miles in narrow canoes
with no more than 8 inches (20 cms) freeboard in 1 metre plus waves and 8
knot rip tides. Hundreds of them. If anyone tried to do that I would
describe them as foolhardy, reckless - but they seemed in control, we
avoided each other at closing speeds of 12-15 knots, I photographed with one
hand, steered with the other. Fantastic. We kept an eye open expecting
casualties, perhaps a capsize, but all seemed well. I asked around
afterwards where they came from but no-one was able to help.

The day before we had negotiated the tricky passage between Lombok (which is
the island east of Bali) and the small Gillie Islands off NW Lombok in 30
knot winds from dead ahead - not the ideal conditions for spotting reefs but
the GPS positions were accurate and with Nicky in her bikini on the bow to
try to spot reefs and getting very wet we shot through and anchored 100
metres off Kombal Bay in 21 metres depth in about the only shelter there
was - and the wind was still 20 knots. But Tony was there on Devotion, so at
sundowners he and Bob and Glenda on the next yacht came across and as the
darkness fell and the wind howled Nicky and Tony analysed man/woman
relations on boats, and the rest of us scared ourselves silly with risks we
had encountered - not least stories (from Bob) of people being drugged in
Bali and ending up minus one or two kidneys. Bob had dived North Sea and
Malaysia as a saturation diver, and was now on his 4th circumnavigation - he
averages about 5 years/circuit.

Janet had to fly back to UK from Bali so next day we set off at first light
(the Muezzin alarm call for once being useful) when we encountered the
hundreds of local boats. The current in the Bali-Lombok straights is
supposed to be north to south 3-8 knots - and it was at first, but there
must be an extensive counter current running at 1- 2 knots north between
Bali and Lembongan Island in the middle of the channel, and the southerly
wind became westerly so we had quite a fight to get through the swirling
whirlpools and sullen deep flowing currents.

3 yachts that we know of have been wrecked on the reefs surrounding the
entrance to Benoa Harbour (Denpassar - the capital of Bali). In the event we
arrived at 2 pm in good light and the entrance though narrow (the channel is
only about 50-100 metres wide) has reasonable if old buoys to left and
dolphins (lattice towers) to right so its OK, and the right hand turn into
the marina channel is marked with faded green poles (no lights) on the
reefs. Definitely not for a night entrance.

Bali International Marina sounds posh but isn't - old concrete floating
pontoons in an L shape, about 25 yachts and ...that's it. But there are
finger berths, electricity and (non drinking) water, helpful staff, the
formalities were completed in just 10 minutes. the Marina Restaurant is
breezy and pleasant, and security guards poke a mirror under all cars
entering the marina area after the 2003 and 2005 Bali bombings. Marina
charges are US$15/night.

The Wallace line was defined by the British naturalist Wallace, a
contemporary of Darwin who appears to have come close to developing the
theory of evolution before Darwin, so prompting Darwin to finally publish
his thesis. Wallace had realized that the animals and plants to the west of
a line between Bali and Lombok (and extending further in a smooth curve
north and south) were of Indian/Asian origin and type, whereas to the east
of the line they were similar to those in Australia and Papua - for example
marsupials. We now know that this deep channel between Bali and Lombok marks
the edges of 2 different continental plates that originated separately and
have slowly drifted close together - but the species have retained the
different characteristics that they evolved during the time the plates were
thousands of miles apart. It also explains the ferocious volcanic activity
in Indonesia around this line - Bali's Gunung Agung volcano killed 10,000
when it last erupted in 1963.

Wednesday we arranged a car and driver through Chandra at the marina to go
to Tanah Lot, the most revered and famous sea temple in Bali. We had been
warned about the aggressive hawkers, but were not prepared for what we
found. By chance we had stumbled onto the first outdoors performance of the
famous Kecak dance/theatre with a choir of 5000. This was actually the dress
rehearsal, so we watched the director take the 5000 though their
'chak-a-chak' chant and hands waving then as the sun set behind the
sublimely artistic Tanah Lot temple island, we had a grandstand view as more
or less the only tourists within the bare-chested Kecak choir for 2 hours.
The choir knew the movements and sounds by heart, and 5000 pairs of hands
waving in perfect unison, individual fingers coordinated, while chak-a-chak
from 5000 throats echoed off the sea walls and the surf thundered behind was
something special. This is the only Balinese dance that does not use a
Gamelan (gong) orchestra.

Thursday we drove towards Ubud the ancient capital of the Majapahit dynasty
that in about 1200 AD ruled Java but were later expelled and came to Bali
bringing Hinduism to join Bali's animist religions. The resulting fusion is
the basis for much of Balinese attitudes today - a quite untourist driven
focus on the community and the spirits and demons that struggle to
destabilize the 'adat' (traditional) way of life and which must be fought or
appeased. The villages between Denpassar the current capital and Ubud have
each specialized in a particular craft - Celuk for silverwork, Batuan for
paintings etc. We saw a Barong dance where the Barong tiger/dragon protects
his protégés from the fearful female Rangda demon. We dropped in to a
village temple which was just consecrating a new marble plaque with
offerings of food and money, and viewed Ubud's museums illustrating the
evolution of local Balinese narrative puppet art through its transition to
single subjects then stimulated by a few western artists working in Bali to
the current 'natural' forms best known as the green 'Bali lady' which used
to be the most commonly sold reproduction in the UK.  We continued north to
the 10 monuments of Gunung Kawi each carved 7 metres into the rock face at
the foot of a deep gorge with rice paddy terraces extending all the way down
on either side. These date back to approximately 1100 AD before even the
Majapahits. Sellers entice you with wares on the way down, then make the
sale as you pause for breath on the way up.

I am afraid that I had been incredibly naïve about Bali. Having seen the
relatively primitive islands of animist Timor, Christian Flores and Muslim
Sumbawa, the sophistication and all-encompassing nature of spiritual worship
in Bali took me by surprise. There are 3 temples in almost every village,
every business every day (even the marina) puts out offerings for the good
spirits and also to appease the demons - always intricately woven with a
joss stick and small amounts of food, and the temples are marvels of
intricate detail, with an architecture not unlike that of Cambodia with
walls surrounding the temple and pavilions inside. Bali makes a lot of money
out of cultural dances, and craftwork as well as from hotels and
restaurants, but they would do this even if there were no tourists.

I celebrated my birthday on Sunday a day early as Tim Luker from Shell EP
Middle East arrived to sail with us to Bali. Dinner was at Aroma fish
restaurant on the beach at Pengiran Bay, sand between your toes and superb
grilled fish looking out onto the lights of fishing boats in the bay. Just
like night BBQs on the beach when I started sailing in Shell Oman.
Delightful.

Before we left, we provisioned at Bali Deli and Makro supermarket (a sort of
Bali Costco) and Tim and I went to Ulu Watu temple perched on 100 metre
seacliffs in southern Bali. They perform a Cecek most evenings here, which
given the setting would be spectacular, but the other attractions are the
monkeys which eat the offerings and are reputed to snatch the glasses from
unwary visitors. A versatile monk/guide/cook/cleaner/builder showed us round
with a stick to deter this.

With some trepidation I filled Intrepid with high sulphur Indonesian fuel,
(after the Bali bombings it is technically illegal to have diesel in jerry
cans since diesel is an ingredient [with fertilizer] of the bombs), and
changed all the filters, we found Hardi who although a rare Muslim in Bali
(and hence  not eating or drinking from sunrise to sunset during the month
of Ramadan) did a very good job polishing Intrepid, and we departed Bali
Marina.

The current in the Bali/Lombok straight was a vicious 4.5 knots against us,
so we zigzagged around and found a counter current or at least neutrality
about 100 metres offshore so we hugged the Bali east coast all the way round
past a possible anchorage in Labuan Amok but by then the current was with
us, so as night fell we slowly made our way north from Bali en route to the
island of Ras, aiming to arrive next day. But the wind died, and the current
became a steady 2.5 knots south against us, so that we couldn't make Ras in
daylight, and decided to carry on.

Night sails are sometimes rather routine - not this one. As we negotiated a
tricky reef in the dark we saw a set of lights ahead - a largish ship with
high tech oil tanker fast response lifeboat on the stern slowly going the
same way as us - which suddenly when we were within 1 mile revved up, did a
180 degree turn and came back towards us at about 15 knots with vapour
streaming from all parts of her playing a searchlight on Intrepid,. We
called on the radio and she missed us by perhaps quarter of a mile but very
strange. We still have no idea what she was doing.

Then at 3 am  I encountered a line of 25 lights strung right across the
track we on, and on either side - pirates, fishermen? We were sailing at 7
knots in 25 knot winds and 1-2 metre waves, the moon had set at 2 am so very
dark. As I came closer the lights turned out to be fishing boats probably
from nearby Madura, but so closely aligned that if I went left or right I
would go even closer to the next boat. Their use of navigation lights here
has to be seen to be believed - one boat proudly displayed 2 bright green
lights in all directions, another featured turquoise, yellow was popular,
also red but only on the starboard side. By the time I could make out where
each boat was heading, there was little I could do but keep my track and
over the next four miles 5 boats came within 30 metres of Intrepid,
traditional shaped fishing boats, 20 metres long, 4 wide, engines slowly
chugging, arc lights to attract fish making night vision impossible, as they
motored close to Intrepid then turned suddenly to run parallel to us but in
the opposite direction at a closing speed of 14 knots or more, skidding
.past so close they could have thrown a fish over (none did). Apparently
evil spirits cant turn corners (that's why doors in Bali usually have a wall
just behind them so that evil spirits cant manage the chicane to get in), so
a common tactic is to aim at a foreign boat, then alter course at the last
minute so that the evil spirit (perhaps causing poor luck fishing) is thrown
off onto the foreign boat. That's my excuse anyway.

Tim relieved me at 4 am, but at 5 am as the very faintest glimmer of light
came from the east he called me again - he had a radar echo 4 miles ahead
and had altered course to avoid it - and again when it became 2 blips - a
tug towing a huge largely invisible barge half a mile behind and we were
going right over and through its tow rope (which is not advisable as
anything that can pull 2000 tonnes of barge can break Intrepid very easily).
We were only a mile away going full tilt. We couldn't alter course any more,
so had to come to a complete halt, and go round the stern of the massive
barge (only a tiny light on it), as the tug captain (who had the proper
towing lights as Tim had observed) thanked us in Indonesian. We then had a
maze of fishing nets and floats to negotiate, zig zagging to avoid the large
trunks of bamboo each with a flag attached (no lights), we were glad we
hadn't been in this part at night.

That evening Tim caught his second large barracuda, bringing it cleanly
alongside - frustrating, as we don't eat barracuda because of the risk of
ciguatera nerve poisoning caused by toxins accumulating in fish - it is
fatal in 7% of cases so we avoid likely carriers unless we have local
knowledge. We had our 3rd night at sea hove-to off Bawean Island as the
charts are much too rough for a night entrance. Intrepid lay nicely hove to
at 50 degrees to the 25 knot wind with just a reefed main sail and the
rudder pushing us to windward, drifting sideways at about 1.2 knots - almost
no downwind movement at all. At sunrise we entered the bay on the north of
Bawean island east of the main town avoiding the 20 or so unlit boats that
we could easily have run down had we tried to go in at night.

It's a beautifully sheltered bay gently shelving sand good anchorage, a few
small houses, 5 'dragon' fishing boats anchored nearby painted in beautiful
colours with flags all over - they come from Java to fish, then return with
fish in ice and salt to sell it there. We dinghied over and found they
wanted to discuss ..English Premier League football - luckily Tim had bought
the New Straights Times from KL, so I was able to discuss the latest results
and the merits of Wayne Rooney and David Beckham with them, and we  bought
some fish - eel like 'hair fish' which made for an tasty  BBQ - if bony
until I discovered how to fillet them. Interestingly the fishermen wanted to
photograph us, using their mobile phones/cameras!

Bawean Island is about 20 miles by 15 miles between Java and Kalimantan
(Indonesian South Borneo) with a population of 65,000 and is being
considered for development as a Muslim competitor to Bali. Many of the
people go abroad to work - to the middle east for example or as AB's on
ships, and return home to build very pleasant brick and tile homes.

To Nicky's disappointment 8 yachts from the Sail Indonesia Rally arrived
just after us, so we filled the Bay. We dinghied ashore where a pleasant
lady let us tie our dinghy to her canoe stand, and walked east past the
mosque and well built houses, dodging the many mopeds and admiring the neat
cow sheds and chicken coops. Next day we walked into Tamak town 3 kms to the
west of us, to buy what we could from the market, admiring the hundreds of
brightly painted fishing canoes, eclipsed only by the bright piles of
rubbish strewn around. 4 local girls aged about 16 chatted to us in English
and wanted their photograph taken with us on their mobile phone/camera
(Bawean has 2 huge mobile phone towers, but few if any fixed lines). We ate
lunch at the pleasant lady's restaurant behind curtains covering the door,
along with a number of Baweans who clearly found her nasi goring (fried
rice) and lemon irresistible even though it was Ramadan, and the Koran
reading on loudspeaker went throughout the Friday.

The bay was sand so no coral but we swam, and next day set off 350 miles NW
to Serutu island so as not to lose the advantage of a full moon, which rises
at about 6pm and sets at about 6am and makes night sailing much safer and
more pleasant. But the 20 knot winds of the last 2 days died, and by
afternoon we were wafting along at 3 knots in 7 knots of wind, the current
for once helping us along. But the wind had other ideas and within a few
hours we had 15-20 knots from the south and east, and as night fell we were
treated to a stupendous view of the full moon rising sheer out of the Java
Sea to the east of us, vivid orange close to the horizon, becoming silver as
it got higher. It's a sight that anyone can see but few do. When its full
the moon rises at about 6pm and sets at 6am (useful), before that it rises
in the afternoon and sets about midnight, after it has been full it rises at
midnight or so and sets in the morning - so full moons provide maximum light
when we need it. Gods own headlights.

The moon helped us that night, Tim and I chatting away after dinner saw the
tow only 2 miles away, a faint strobe on the bow of the massive barge
carrying timber from poor devastated Kalimantan forests, so we swung round
the stern, then at 1 am Nicky had not one but 3 tows all within 3 miles of
her, 2 going to Kalimantan, one back to Java, progressing at a steady 1-2
knots, each barge about half a mile behind slow revving tugs.

We are on the main shipping line down the Java Sea so we also had a liner, a
tanker, a bulk carrier, and even an oil production platform plus the usual
eccentrically lit fishing boats so full moon is a definite plus.

The GPS satellites in the southern hemisphere seem wider spaced than in the
north, (the satellites were originally for defence purposes and I guess the
USA has fewer enemies in the southern hemisphere - certainly when the
satellites were launched), and occasionally the GPS tracks 3 satellites that
move into a straight line - at which point the GPS  triangulation fails,
alarms go off, and I had to get up to help Tim reset the unit; and subsea
electric cables can distort navigation as well. But at midday we did catch a
ferociously snapping Wahoo which Tim got up to the transom when the twisting
snapping writhing bundle of hate and sheer macho energy twisted so much that
it spun out of our hold and probably deservedly fell back into the sea - by
chance without sinking its incredibly sharp teeth into any of our limbs -
that fish was taking no hostages. Frustrating nonetheless, but that's
fishing. Adrenalin surging we reset lures and ....waited

We are heading for Serutu island near Kalimantan at the narrowest part of
the Java Sea, 300 miles south east of Singapore, and 80 miles east of Bangka
and Belitung islands which jut out east from Sumatra and around which pirate
attacks on big ships have been reported, but its all quiet..too quiet...

All day we sailed in 15 knot SE winds, lovely sailing until just as darkness
was falling (sundowners were well past and Nicky was about to prepare pasta
for dinner) - the reel raced and Tim exuberantly reeled in a beautiful 4 Kg
Wahoo, we avoided its teeth and within 15 minutes had fresh sashimi and then
seared Wahoo. Worth waiting for.  Our timing brought us to the north of
Serutu island at first light ext morning, but it was so hazy I could only
see the island on radar. Maybe caused by fires in Kalimantan? We rounded the
west headland (this is a tall island, 400 metres with deep valleys) and
peered south through the haze trying to find the 3rd bay which is where the
anchorage is. Eventually we found it and anchored in 10 metres of water 200
metres from shore with coral reefs stretching 100 metres out. 6 other yachts
and 5 local fishing boats.

The haze worsened. Its almost certainly caused by logging in Kalimantan
where Chinese logging companies do anything they can to get virgin timber
out of the forests as cheaply as possible including burning to ease access
and/or burning to facilitate conversion of the land to plantations and/or
inadvertent burning of peat reserves. All this destroys the way of life for
the native Dayaks - but set against the billions to be made logging, I am
afraid this counts for little to those responsible. Because of the haze, 4
yachts left, but by afternoon a westerly wind started to clear the air,
(reinforcing our idea that the haze is coming from fires in Kalimantan to
the east of us) and we splashed around in a classic fresh water stream that
sailing boats for centuries have probably filled their water barrels at.
Indeed the fishermen did exactly that wading in pulling their plastic water
barrels, returning with them full. A tough life.

Tim and I snorkelled over the coral extending out about 100 metres from the
shore - it was extensive with masses of fish, although slightly 'yellow' -
perhaps from the haze or organics washed down by the stream. At night the
fishing boats motored slowly out of the bay and anchored with lights on to
attract fish as the haze returned in full and 3 yachts felt their way into
the bay from the east.

We left early next day, in less than ¼ mile visibility. Within 1 hour Tim
caught a Wahoo so by 8am all fishing rods were away again, and radar going
continuously we felt our way westward, alert for big ships or small fishing
boats, and the haze improved after about 100 miles. That night I had 2 ships
coming at me from the north, 1 from the south, and the only safe route was
dead ahead negotiating the 1.5 mile gap between them. I heard on VHF what I
thought was the nearest one announce their intention to turn to starboard
which would have taken him directly towards Intrepid, but fortunately it was
the more northerly ship that turned, and they all faded away into the
dappled moonlight, so that by the time Tim came on watch at 4am they were
only distant blips on the radar.

We needed to finish our Wahoo before we could fish again, so Tim and I
produced a highly experimental Wahoo Tempura which was excellent if
unorthodox, so as I write the lines are out, and we should arrive at our
anchorage near coral at the south of Lingga at sunrise Saturday, still just
a few miles south of the Equator and 100 miles south of Singapore. Singapore
is also reported to have haze - perhaps from Sumatra - also pirate attacks
on ships to the east of Singapore, so ships have been warned on Navtex  to
be on the look out for fast moving unlit craft.  But the main hazard that
night were large unlit fishing floats and fishing boats strung out in out
track - with no moon its impossible to see them, and though they sometimes
appear on radar as small inconsequential blips their position changes with
Intrepid's heading. We managed OK, and slowed down enough to enter the small
channel between Sunsa Island and Lingga Island an hour after sunrise in a
light haze and anchored just before an Indonesian Coastguard ship arrived.
We thought they had come to check us - but no, 22 men crammed into an
impossibly small boat and they rushed off to maintain the nearby
lighthouse - which is now working - good to see.. We explored ashore Sunsa
island but its very basic - and round here that means a rough shelter
and ..that's it.

I asked Tim for what life on Intrepid was REALLY like - here is his account,
unedited:

Captains Log: Stardate1425.14.10.06

Long.150 degrees (ish), Lat. a gnats whisker south of the equator

We are currently in the middle of nowhere, floating (which is a good state
of affairs) in the lee of an island after a 48 hr run with the South East
trade winds, hiding from a band of voracious pirates marauding the coast of
Java. We have finished the meat and the fish and are now weighing the pros
and cons of attacking the tin of corned beef, concocting a veggie Spag Bog,
or harvesting the seaweed from the adjacent coral heads for an ethnic Caesar
Salad - luckily stocks of ethanol and cigars are in abundance, so no crisis
yet. I digress, let us go back to the beginning...

I have been on Intrepid for two weeks now, the latest recruit to sign on as
deckhand for this Bali to Singapore leg. We have covered about 800 miles in
three stages each of which varied between 250-350 miles and 2-3 days
(nights) at sea. My baptism occurred on the first night out, during my first
0300-0700 watch alone in the cockpit trying to determine what these
miscellaneous black blobs were doing, moving around the radar screen
apparently at random. The largest blob, on a collision course with us for
the previous five miles appeared as a genetic cross breed of a Christmas
tree and the interior of a Turkish brothel (the latter according to Andy).
At one mile distant, I was forced to summon assistance from the slumbering
Skipper, hit the brakes on Intrepid, and watch as a tug crept by at a snails
pace connected by a cable to a floating brick about the size of the Starship
Enterprise, with no lights attached. I learnt something that night: expect
the unexpected and don't hesitate to wake up Captain Horatio (as he's
affectionately known on this vessel).

If we're sailing, then we take turns at the helm on the look-out for things
to avoid, interspersed with some reading, and maybe a little siesta to catch
up on missed sleep the  previous night. At anchor, we miss out the first bit
and concentrate on the other activities supplemented by a snorkel and/or
beach-comb (if there is a beach).

I have to admit to becoming a muesli man in the morning, primarily as muesli
is supposed to be "efficacious for the movements" and secondly as a
displacement activity for when Nicky wakes up and needs her incommunicado
time from the human race - this takes about an hour and then she's fine.

Lunch is raw Wahoo Sashimi, or peanut butter sandwiches if our fishing
skills were not up to scratch the previous day - I lost three Wahoo which
was a bit of a bugger, silent recriminations ghosted around the boat whilst
Nicky baked fresh bread - I think we were grateful to have a fish free day
actually (and the bread is marvellous). I also caught three humungous
Barracuda, mantle-piece specimens actually, but we weren't allowed to eat
them as they were apparently suffering from a life-threatening disease that
can be passed to humans. This highly dubious story was clearly an attempt to
deny me of my Big Fishing Story of the trip, we'll see about that!

Sundowners at 1800, on the nose, followed by a sweaty hour in the galley for
the cook of the day to prepare something new, different, original, tasty,
and most importantly palatable to all tastes- my red-hot  pork vindaloo
failed the latter test and had to be jettisoned a week later when we found
it lurking in the depths of the fridge conspiring (with itself) for future
world domination. My other culinary creations seemed to pass muster..

The sailing has been splendid with decent 10-20 knot SE winds most of the
time wafting us in the NW direction desired, we have spent three overnight
periods anchored in secluded bays where we snorkelled and beach-combed, and
have only had one encounter with the human  race at large when visiting a
small village of 50 houses and a market to stock up on fresh provisions
(five mangoes and three pineapples).

I have not fallen in the sea but I have stubbed my toes dozens of times on
the cabin steps, I have not hit anything whilst steering the vessel but had
one near miss with a fishing buoy, I got sunburn on day one but have now
recovered, my hair is doing a gollywog impression presumably from the salt
and humidity, I tried to grow a beard but failed and shaved it off this
morning (humiliating this one), and I have learned how to do my washing in a
bucket (don't let Mummy read this).

All in all, a fabulous time, thanks to Andy and Nicky for putting up with
me - oh no! next crisis! no more limes, need to improvise with the gin and
tonics this evening....

Tim

We often have 3 people on Intrepid - too many for Cribbage, too few for
Bridge. So we developed a new game with Maeve for 3 people that combined
Bridge and Poker if you can imagine that, with each individual bidding in
terms of tricks they would make if they  partnered the exposed dummy hand,
and winning points above and below the line. Worked well, and can be played
for money or points - until Tim arrived and told us that it had already been
invented - but more usually the dummy is hidden until bidding is completed.
Its not often we play cards on Intrepid but on a few occasions its just the
right pastime at anchor so its good to have 3 and 4 person options.

As you see we have to adjust to a different pace of life, sometimes hectic
sometimes soporific, usually interesting, always different, if you want to
come on Intrepid do say, the number of opportunities for 2006/7 are rapidly
reducing but who knows we may sail Intrepid to other destinations within or
outside the Med in 2008 ...... and if you would like to stay with us in Kent
from September 2007 just ask, we would love to see friends, we are about 20
miles from London in glorious Kentish countryside.

With best wishes from the crew of Intrepid,

Andy Nicky and Tim.

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